It is said that Amsterdam was founded on herring and beer. The brewing industry may have now turned to industrial brands like Heineken and Amstel, but the humble herring is still an important part of Amsterdam life. It is a fish that really must be tried on a short city break in Amsterdam.
It is a fish with a fascinating folklore. The first ton of each year’s catch (herring season officially begins May 31) belongs to the Dutch queen, though she hopefully shares the feast with her subjects. For those in Amsterdam who eat the young fish, known as ‘maatjesharing’, they must hold it by the tail and stuff it into their mouths, a bit in the manner of a sword swallower!
The name of the new season’s catch comes from the Dutch ‘maagdekensharing’, or virgin herring. The ‘maatjes’ are the young fish that have not yet spawned. They are gutted immediately after being caught, although part of the pancreas is retained in the body and contains the enzyme that gives the fish its distinctive flavor. They are then frozen in brine inside oak barrels. Each part of the process adds another dimension to the unique flavor that has a hint of spice.
The maatje season is until the end of June when the fish spawn. The boats have traditionally set sail from the port of Scheveningen, near The Hague, and most of the fish were caught off the coast of the Netherlands. The port claims to be the largest herring port in Europe and at one point could boast 2,000 boats. In fact, it is said that more than 20% of the Dutch population worked in the herring industry in the 16th century. Today much of the fishing has moved into Danish waters and is done by Danish boats. However, the sale of herring is still very much a Dutch trade. The herring shoals may have changed, but it seems that tradition is slow to die.
Herring seasons are quite different, each producing fish with different characteristics. In addition to the maatje season in May/June, ‘volle hareng’ are caught in the summer months and again in the winter months from December to April. They are quite a bit fattier this time of year during the spawning season. Between September and October is the season for ‘ljle herring’, the fish that has spawned and is noticeably less fatty.
Herrings are sold as fresh fish; or fried and pickled; or as hot-smoked salted smoked fish or, as in Britain, as cold-smoked kippers then reheated before eating.
The herring industry in Amsterdam was one of the first in the world to use quality control. The fish were put into wooden boxes that were sealed with a ring burned into the wood. That ring is said to be the origin of the word ‘haring’. Another word origin from these early days in the herring industry is “pickle”. This brine storage method was invented by Willem Beukelsz, a Dutchman whose name somehow morphed into ‘pekelen’ and then ‘pickle’ in English. And, as they say, not many people know about it!
It is rare that a city can be said to be founded on a fish. The herring, however, has played that role in the history of Amsterdam. With fish so digestible and seen as a particularly healthy source of essential vitamins, it’s no surprise that the people of Amsterdam have thrived. So indulge in the city’s favorite fish on a city break to Amsterdam. It will taste great and even better, it will do you good.