Sewing projects like this can be a lot of fun and save you a lot of money. Here are two different sewing methods on how to sew a lined tank top.
Reversible tank tops are very versatile. They are perfect to take when you travel. You get a 2 for 1 top if you use another color for the lining. You can even get 4 for 1 by using 4 different colored fabrics. . . 2 colors for the 2 fronts and 2 colors for the 2 backs. This works great under suit jackets as only the front is showing when you wear it.
Try to show first. It’s a great way to spend a lot of your stash!
The necklines can even be different in the front and back if you wish. Try sewing a V-neckline in the front and a round neckline in the back. If you don’t have bust darts, you can wear the top back for a different look.
Try both sewing techniques to see which you like best.
Method I: Sew a trim on the neckline and armholes
Directionally sew necklines and armholes to help prevent stretching.
That is, sew 1/2″ from the edge through a single layer of
fabric from shoulder to mid front and mid back
in the neckline
Stitch from shoulder to armpit at armholes.
Stitch the bottom edge of the tank 1/4″ from the front and back edges on both layers.
Sew shoulder seams
Place a front and a back with 2 right sides together.
Sew shoulder seams from neckline to armhole.
Repeat for the lining layer.
Sandwich presses the shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim shoulder seams of lining to 1/4″
Sew side seams
Sew the side seams from the bottom to the armpit on both layers.
Sandwich presses the seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim side liner seams to 1/4″.
Try on to check the fit.
Before sewing the two layers together, try on the tank top to see if there is room in the neckline or armholes. If so, now is the time to fix it, whether it’s darts, slackening, or other adjustments to the neckline or armhole that are too complicated to address here.
Sewing Tip: Use a hot melt tape on the necklines and armholes to help eliminate the gap problem.
Once you get the top to fit your body, make the same adjustments to the lining.
Put the tank top and lining together
Put the 2 wrong sides of the tank top and lining together.
Pin the shoulder seams on top of each other to hold them in place at the neckline and shoulder point.
Align and pin underarms.
Pin center front and center back together at neckline
Pin the armholes together
Starting at the shoulder seam, sew the neckline 5/8″ to 3/4″ from the edge.
Trim the seam allowance close to the seam. This edge will be attached and will be the finished edge of the garment.
Sew armhole seams 5/8″ to 3/4″. Trim the seam allowance close to the seam.
Now the neckline and armhole edges are ready to be bound.
Sewing Tip: You can try sewing the edges with a
decorative thread or find store-bought decorative trim to tie them. You are the designer.
Cut Cloth Binding
For a fabric trim, cut matching or contrasting bias trim to go around the neckline and both armholes 4 times as wide as you want the finished trim to be.
That is, if you want a 3/8″ finished binding, cut the bias 1-1/2″ wide and the length you need.
Test the bias width on scraps of your garment and lining fabric (double layer) to make sure you have enough width for the “turn of the fabric”.
sew-binding
Sewing Tip: Use fusible thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine to sew the trim to the neckline and armholes.
Place the right side of the joint against the right side of
the tank top with the raw edges together.
At the beginning of the binding, fold the raw end back.
Place this pleat at one of the shoulder seams for the neckline. If you prefer, you can start the bind mid back, however if you plan to wear the tank inside out, it may look better to have the bind end on one shoulder.
Place the fold to start the join in the armpit for the
armholes
Sew the trim as deep as you want it to be when you’re done. Example: 3/8″. Slightly stretch the binding while sewing a curve.
Overlap where you started binding and trim off the excess. The folded edge of the binding will show when the binding is finished.
Turn the bias binding up over the edge of the garment, fold it under and pin it in place.
Lightly press to fuse the seam and hold it in place.
Make a slip stitch on the edge of the binding so the stitches are not showing from either side or “stitch in the ditch” or “stitch right” on the right side with the stitches showing on the lining side.
Note: The thread of the fuse is not enough to hold the union.
permanently. You must sew it.
If you are not going to wear the tank top inside out, simply leave the raw edge of the trim on the inside and “sew in the trench.” Eliminate volume. Since it is bias, it does not fray.
Hem Options:
Fold the two layers separately. Fold the outer layer first.
Let it rest for a while. Try the garment on and mark where the lining should be folded. Then fold the lining layer over so it doesn’t show.
Note: If the garment is not reversible, fold the lining slightly shorter than the garment. If the garment is reversible, you will want both layers to be the same length.
Hand sew a small “swing tack” to the bottom of the side seams to hold both layers together.
Optional: you can join both layers at the bottom and join them too.
Alternate Option: Or, bring the 2 right sides of the bottom of the garment together and line and stitch around a 4″ opening near one side seam to turn the right side of the tank out.
Slipstitch or fuse the opening closed.
Method II – Create a Center Back Seam for More Options
This is another favorite sewing technique for sewing a lining.
Sleeveless. This method requires a mid front or mid back seam on the garment. It is the same technique that is often used for a reversible or lined vest.
If you don’t want a simple seam line down the center of the shirt, make it a pleat or pleat or some other design element on the garment. Be sure to leave extra fabric for the center seam plus the fold, pleats, etc.
How to add for an inverted fold
Here is an example of how to add an inverted fold. East
the pleat folds in toward the seam line and helps hide it. You can add decorative or superior stitching or trim, etc. to the fold if you wish. You are the designer. Do what suits your taste. Get ready-to-wear ideas.
For a 1″ inverted fold mid back or center front on a tank top, you would add twice the fold (2″) plus a seam allowance (5/8″). That adds up to 2 -5/8″ total you need to add to the center front or center back fold line to make a 5/8″ seam and have a 1″ fold.
You may also like the exposed seam as the focal point of a box pleat and run a row of embellishments or buttons along the seam line. Simply fold the crease to create a box fold instead of an inverted fold.
How to sew the tank top
Directional stitching at necklines and armholes on both layers to prevent stretching as specified in Method I.
Sew shoulder seams on both layers. Press and trim as in Method I.
DO NOT sew the center seam. For our example, we will use a center back seam.
Put the 2 right sides together of the tank and the liner together
Sew the armholes, cut and stitch. Use short stitches (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and topstitch.
For the neckline, starting at the back about 2″ before the
shoulder seam, sew around neckline and stop 2″ beyond
the other shoulder seam.
Trim the seam and topstitch. Use short stitches to sew a curve (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and topstitch.
Leave the back neckline unsewn until after the seam and pleat is done in the middle of the back. It is good for now.
turn right out
Now pull the raw right and left back across each shoulder to turn the right side out.
Iron the topstitch neckline and armholes well on the board.
center stitch seam
Sew center seam 5/8″. Sandwich press. Press seam to open.
pleated brand
With the face side up, mark the fold lines 2″ from each side of the seam line. Bring those lines up to the seam line and press the fold into place.
You can sew 1″ from the marked fold if you wish.
Repeat for lining.
Back Neckline Finish
Now finish the back neckline. Sewing with short stitches, trimming, topstitching, ironing.
The shoulders, neckline and armholes are finished.
sew side seams
Place the right sides together for both the garment and the
covering.
Pin the underarm seams on top of each other matching exactly.
Start at the bottom of the garment and sew in a continuous seam up to the armhole, stop, run your sewing machine over the pin and continue sewing the side seam of the lining.
Sandwich presses the seam.
Press the seam open.
Do not cut this lining seam in case you need to loosen the garment.
Turn the lining layer down inside the garment.
finish bottom
Finish the bottom as described above with separate hems or. . .
Pin the two layers together leaving an opening near one side seam and turn right side out.
Design your own tank style clothes
Change your necklines, add slits to the sides or lengthen
the tank top pattern for tunic, knee length or floor length. Just be sure to leave room for hip width plus ease.
Perfect the fit in your tank top sewing pattern. Use it to sew blouses, dresses, beachwear, nightgowns, vests and sleeveless jackets.
Sew a whole wardrobe with different fabrics such as silk, lace, fleece, leather, suede, denim, upholstery, curtains, cottons, knits, quilting, whatever you want.
Add decorative stitches, appliqués, embroidery, fabric manipulation; test all your sewing techniques, paintings, etc.
Have fun designing your own unique tank wardrobe. Is it so
quick and easy sewing projects.
It just makes sense!