Grab the snow shovel, pull out the motorcycle trailer and head up Turkey Creek Canyon and head south for new ride routes. With the bikes safely stowed, its south through New Mexico and western Arizona to the old copper mining town of Bisbee. Just south of that Old West legend, Tombstone, Bisbee flourished at the turn of the century and supported a handsome late-Victorian town. At one time, it was the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco. The mine finished in the 60s and the town began to die. Like many down-on-his-luck mining towns in the 1960s, it was discovered by the flower children. In the 90s it was rediscovered and gentrified. It now stands as a funky eclectic mix of hippies, yuppies and retirees filled with excellent cafes, shops and galleries.
After a brunch the next morning, bikes packed and Mexican motorcycle insurance in hand, it was time to cross the border into Mexico. The twin cities of Naco, Arizona and Naco, Sonora are home to an uncrowded border crossing. Sonora’s newly implemented exclusive program allows you to drive, often without stopping. While in northern Sonora, you do not need a vehicle permit. The road south of Naco was narrow and in places almost solid tar patches. The shoulders were non existent. Overall though, the potholes were few and the surface good. The road intersects with Highway 2 about 37 miles south of Naco. From here, it’s a short drive west to Cananea, home to a working copper mine. In Cananea, it’s time to head south on the Ruta del Río Sonora, the Ruta del Río Sonora.
There is a customs control en route but it is once again a formality. Again no shoulders but a good road surface. The tall grass is three feet tall and reaches down to the pavement. It had a strange feeling, like riding on a wheat-colored Hot Wheels track. It has been dry, without rain for 5 months and the landscape is brown. The winding paths go up away from the river and then back down again. Brilliant whitewashed bridges span the river. Where there are no bridges and you have to ford the river. Fords are called fords. Another feature of Mexican highways are the hilltops. These are big speed bumps on the driveway and through towns. Some were large enough to scrape the frame rails of cruisers. Crossing at a slight angle alleviates the problem. There is another type of bumper that looks more threatening than it really is. It is constructed of metal half spheres about 6 inches in diameter, spaced 3 inches apart and arranged in three rows along the roadway. This menacing set of steel balls turned out to be just another bump in the road, and actually easier to navigate than the larger flat tops. Most of the stops were marked with warning signs and painted white or yellow. Some are not.
Continuing south along the Sonona River, small towns can be seen. Built near the driveway of stucco on adobe, individual houses sit in the field along with corrals for cattle and horses. Along the route, Arizpe, founded in the 1630s, is home to the historic Templo de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Construction of the temple began in 1646 and features the bones of explorer Juan Bautista de Anza, who died in 1788. Juan’s bones are there for all to see, six feet under glass on the chapel floor.
Returning to the highway, the wide valley to the west with the thin fringe of the Sonora River in and out of sight as the highway climbed the valley wall and descended again toward the valley floor.
Welcome signs announced the town of Banamichi (pop 1500) and soon the bikes were parked in front of La Posada del Río Sonora. An inn is an inn. La Posada is located on the site of an 18th century hacienda. Made of adobe, the building is unusual in that parts of the structure are two-story. Bill, the American owner, bought the building six years ago. At the time, much of it was in ruins; the roof collapsed in places and parts of the adobe severely eroded by wind and water. Bill and his wife Irma, whom he met in town, formed a team of local artisans and went to work.
The structure was stabilized, reinforced and rebuilt. The building now shines. Eight rooms, two apartments, dining room, bar and library are now ready to host, feed and entertain guests. The area above the dining room and kitchen forms an intimate roof terrace with a fire pit for those cool winter nights. The inn is filled with treasures that Bill has collected from around the world. A 300-year-old Tibetan door leads from the bar to the dining room. A set of 18th century doors from China awaits to grace the main entrance. African sculptures and a tin mask from Bolivia adorn the patio walls, while rooms display a mix of locally handcrafted furniture and antiques. All this in a setting of stuccoed adobe washed in bright yellows, blues, strawberry and peach under a tile roof.
Using the Inn as a base camp, the first day of the trip took us northeast. First, he went north toward Arizpe, then east, away from the river, into the Sonoran desert. The journey passes through forests of saguaro and organ cacti, and dry grazing land. In Curcupe are the ruins of an old Spanish mission. Broad rolling hills and sweeping views of the mountains beyond framed the route to the town of Magdellana. All the soldiers at the military checkpoint appeared to be about 17 years old and carried automatic weapons. Looking for drugs and people smugglers, tourists on motorcycles are of little concern and flag down the bikes.
One last series of underpasses through more winding roads and Magdellana, population 31,000, came into view. This is a working city, but see more Americans closer to the border. Lunch at Irma’s Fish House – great shrimp tacos. A brief visit to the city’s cathedral and it was getting late and the traffic in the city was increasing. The afternoon sun bent down and illuminated the landscape with a magical light. More detours along the road would have allowed for photo stops but actually stopping in the middle of the road was not a problem with the almost complete lack of traffic. Back to the valley and south to Banamichi. Lots of smiles and greetings from the residents of the small towns.
After a late start, the next trip was south towards Hermisillo, the capital of the state of Sonora. The Baviacora church consists of two adjacent buildings. The original church is in disrepair but has been stabilized. The newer part of the church is built in the classical style of the area with large, heavy beams and is filled with statues of saints. More winding roads through the countryside going up from the river to the hills along the sides of the valley. cattle country; cowboys on horseback working in the dusty sunlight like they always have. Orchards and orchards of almond trees dot the landscape. The late start made for a short ride but well worth it for the great roads and scenery.
Walk three went east towards the Sierra Madre. Again, south on the Ruta del Río Sonora, past Baviacora and then east. The path climbs away from the river and rapidly gaining altitude. More ranches tucked into the hillside, more cowboys. Climbing higher, the road twists and meanders along the ridges and down over more whitewashed bridges that cross the Río el Rodeo, dry creek beds, and creeks. The day is clear with blue skies and the highest mountain peaks seem close enough to touch. The town of Moctezuma came into view. A stop at the local market found few tourist items. This is a working city. School had just finished for the day and the children waved and smiled at the two gringos and their “motos”.
To Huasbas and our turn. The Huaciara artists’ colony was still another 90 miles ahead and continuing would mean riding back in the dark. With wildlife and cattle straying onto the roads after dark, turning back was the prudent course. The return trip was just as spectacular. Very little traffic and clear navigation. Back in Banamichi for dinner.
The next morning the bikes were packed for the ride back to Bisbee and home. It was hard to say goodbye, hard to leave the warm days and new friends and go back to winter. This is not Cabo or Puerto Vallarta, but “Unknown Mexico”. Tourist amenities are few and far between, but the simple pleasures of unspoiled scenery and friendly people are not to be missed. We will be back; Banamichi is now on our tour schedule. Take a spin, two wheels or four. You will not regret.